A surreal, rusty-orange rhyolite mountain range in the central Highlands. Home to the steaming Hveradalir geothermal valley.
Story & Legend
Accessible only in summer via the F35 Kjölur route, this area feels like a different planet. Deep in the interior lies a mountain range that looks like a rusty Mars. Legend says a female troll (Kerling) was caught by the sunrise while passing through and turned to stone – you can still see the 25-meter rock pillar that is her remains. In the mid-20th century, this was actually a popular summer ski resort before the snow retreated.
Geology & Science
This is a 10,000-year-old volcano system. The main attraction, Hveradalir ('Valley of Hot Springs'), is a geothermal wonderland where steam hisses from red rhyolite clay. The heat is so intense it melts the glaciers from below, creating ice caves and steam vents side-by-side.
Safety
The F35 is a rough gravel road. While it is one of the easier highland routes, a 4x4 vehicle is highly recommended and rental insurance is a must. The clay in Hveradalir is incredibly slippery and sticks to boots like glue – stick to the wooden paths and marked trails.
Photo Tip
The steam is your friend here. Use it to separate layers of the landscape. The contrast of the orange mountains, white snow patches, and blue steam creates a surreal palette. A telephoto lens helps compress the layers of mountains.
Insider Tip
Most people stop at the highland resort and hike for hours to reach the geothermal area. If you have a good 4x4, drive the steep, rough road directly up to the Hveradalir parking lot to save your energy for exploring the boiling mud pots.
Best Time to Visit
Late July to early September. This is deep in the central highlands, and snowstorms can occur even in the middle of summer.
What to Bring
Extreme weather gear. The weather in the highlands can change from sunny to a blizzard in 20 minutes. Layers, gloves, and a warm hat are mandatory.
