A remote, breathtaking fjord in the East known as the safest and most reliable place in Iceland to observe Atlantic Puffins up close, nestled beneath spectacular rhyolite mountains.
Story & Legend
This extremely isolated settlement is steeped in elven folklore. The prominent rocky hill in the village, Álfaborg (Elf City), is widely believed to be the residence of the Icelandic Elf Queen. Locals treat the hill with immense respect, and numerous road building projects in Iceland have been famously diverted to avoid disturbing such elven settlements.
Geology & Science
The Eastfjords are the oldest part of Iceland above sea level, dating back roughly 16 million years. The mountains surrounding Borgarfjörður Eystri, particularly Dyrfjöll, are characterized by colorful rhyolite rock and deep glacial carving. The Hafnarhólmi marina itself is built around a small rocky islet that serves as a natural fortress for nesting seabirds.
Safety
The approach to the fjord involves driving over the Vatnsskarð eystra mountain pass. While paved, it is steep, winding, and completely exposed to harsh winds. In winter, this road is frequently impassable. At the puffin colony, strictly stay on the wooden boardwalks; stepping on the grass can collapse the fragile puffin burrows and crush their eggs.
Photo Tip
Hafnarhólmi is a photographer's dream because the wooden viewing platforms put you within 2 meters of the puffins without disturbing them. You don't even need a massive telephoto lens here—a standard 70-200mm will capture stunning, intimate portraits of the birds returning with fish.
Insider tip
Skip the crowded puffin tours in the South and come here instead. The boardwalks are free and offer the closest proximity to the birds anywhere in the country. Grab a fish soup at the local Álfacafe afterwards.
Best Time to Visit
Mid-May to early August is mandatory to see the puffins.
What to Bring
A warm, windproof layer and a beanie, as the coastal winds at the marina are biting even in July.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see puffins at Borgarfjörður Eystri?
The Atlantic Puffins nest at Hafnarhólmi from mid-May until early August. By mid-August, they head back out to the open ocean and the cliffs will be entirely empty.
Is the road to Borgarfjörður Eystri paved?
Yes, the road (Route 94) was recently paved all the way over the mountain pass and into the town. In past summers it has usually been driven in a 2WD car; check road.is before you go, especially outside summer.
